Setting sail on the Bundalong from Colón, Panama, bound for the Pacific side of Panama City, is an experience many sailors dream of—a crossing that brings together nature, engineering, and an unparalleled sense of adventure. The Panama Canal has been a vital artery of global trade since its completion in 1914, allowing vessels to bypass the lengthy and often treacherous journey around South America’s Cape Horn. But for recreational sailors, the canal presents more than a shortcut; it’s an awe-inspiring passage through dense rainforests, bustling locks, and tranquil lakes, linking the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans in a single, thrilling voyage.
Our adventure began at Shelter Bay Marina, a popular starting point for canal transits located near Colón. After weeks of preparation, which included acquiring the necessary permits, assembling a crew, and coordinating with the Panama Canal Authority (ACP), our team was ready to embark. The canal transit requires strict adherence to timing and protocol, given the complex scheduling of enormous commercial vessels that share the waterway. The excitement was palpable as our guide, or “advisor”—an ACP-appointed official responsible for guiding vessels through the canal—came aboard. With a steady hand and a wealth of experience, he would play an essential role in our journey.
Entering the Gatún Locks
Our first encounter with the canal’s engineering marvels began at the Gatún Locks, a series of three consecutive locks that would raise our boat 85 feet above sea level to Gatún Lake. The locks operate by controlling water levels with an intricate system of culverts, and as the gates closed behind us, the water began to surge upward. The sensation was surreal; one moment, we were at sea level, and the next, we were gradually lifted into the air, our surroundings transforming as we rose above the landscape.
Positioned at the center of the lock, our small boat was dwarfed by the sheer scale of the chamber. In front of us was a towering cargo ship, a “Panamax” vessel—one of the largest ships that could navigate the original locks. The immense steel walls on either side, the labyrinthine network of gears and valves, and the slow, measured filling of the lock all underscored the precision of this 20th-century engineering feat.
Once we completed the third lock, we were released into Gatún Lake, a vast freshwater reservoir that sprawled out as far as the eye could see. Created by damming the Chagres River, Gatún Lake not only provides the water needed to operate the locks but also forms a lush, scenic passage for the next leg of our journey. As we motored through the lake, the panorama shifted from mechanical grandeur to a tranquil natural beauty. Dense rainforests lined the shores, home to a variety of wildlife that seemed unfazed by the passing ships. We spotted tropical birds overhead, the occasional crocodile sunning itself on a log, and monkeys chattering in the canopy—a reminder that we were crossing one of the most biodiverse regions on the planet.
Navigating the Gaillard Cut
After several hours of sailing through Gatún Lake, we approached the Gaillard Cut, or Culebra Cut, one of the canal’s most notorious segments. This narrow, winding passage, carved through the Isthmus of Panama, was one of the most challenging and dangerous sections of the canal to construct. The landscape is littered with massive rock faces, some still marked with scars from dynamite blasts used during the canal’s construction.
Navigating the cut is a test of concentration and skill. The channel here is just wide enough for two-way traffic, with steep banks flanking the waterway. Our advisor took control, his voice calm and authoritative as he directed us through the channel. As we moved through, we encountered tugboats skillfully maneuvering around each other and watched in awe as large ships squeezed by, towering over our vessel. It was a thrilling experience, and the proximity of such massive ships in such a confined space added an element of tension.
Beyond the natural beauty and historic significance of the Gaillard Cut, we were also aware of its geological volatility. Landslides have been a persistent challenge here, and canal authorities work tirelessly to keep the passage open. The cut felt like a window into the history of the canal, a reminder of the ingenuity, labor, and sacrifice that went into its construction.
Descending Through the Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks
Having traversed Gatún Lake and navigated the Gaillard Cut, our journey was nearing its final stages. The Pedro Miguel Lock, the first of two final locks, greeted us with its distinct character. Unlike the earlier Gatún Locks, Pedro Miguel is a single chamber, which would lower us 30 feet toward sea level. The descent was a smooth, quiet experience, the water draining away beneath us and gently lowering our boat back toward the Pacific. With the lock’s gates opening, we proceeded into Miraflores Lake, a small, picturesque stretch that lies between the two locks.
The Miraflores Locks, the final barrier between us and the Pacific Ocean, are the most visited locks in the canal due to their proximity to Panama City. As we entered, we noticed a crowd gathered on the observation deck, watching as ships of all sizes made their way through. Our boat felt tiny against the towering walls and throngs of spectators, but we were exhilarated to be part of this iconic journey.
Miraflores is a two-stage lock, lowering vessels 54 feet in two steps to bring them back to sea level. The process was seamless, but the spectacle of the gates opening for the last time was unforgettable. Beyond the gates lay the Pacific Ocean, its vast expanse shimmering in the tropical sun. After our descent was complete, our advisor shook our hands, congratulating us on a successful transit, and then stepped off our vessel as we set sail toward Panama City.
The Final Stretch: Sailing into the Pacific
Exiting the canal, we felt a sense of liberation and accomplishment. Behind us was the Atlantic, the Panama Canal, and hours of careful navigation through one of the world’s busiest waterways. Before us lay the Pacific, stretching out toward new adventures. The feeling of transition was almost surreal—a testament to the canal’s power to link two oceans and connect worlds.
As we sailed toward the city skyline, with Panama City’s modern high-rises gleaming on the horizon, we reflected on the voyage. The Panama Canal is often described in terms of its logistical importance, but for us, it was much more than that. It was a journey through history and nature, an immersion in a place where the forces of human determination and natural beauty come together in remarkable harmony.
From the humming machinery of the locks to the silent majesty of the rainforest, every moment of the trip had deepened our appreciation for this incredible crossing. The canal remains a testament to human ingenuity, yet it is also a reminder of our dependence on the natural world that surrounds and sustains it.
Lessons from the Journey
Sailing through the Panama Canal teaches one a profound respect for the canal’s workers and engineers, both past and present, as well as for the delicate environment it traverses. The canal relies on vast quantities of freshwater from Gatún Lake, which is replenished only by the region’s regular rainfall. Climate change, deforestation, and urbanization pose threats to this delicate balance, and the canal authority has taken steps to address these issues through conservation efforts and sustainable water management practices.
For recreational sailors, a canal transit requires patience and flexibility, but the rewards are immeasurable. Sharing the locks with commercial giants, encountering wildlife, and experiencing the contrast between man-made infrastructure and untamed jungle are unparalleled. It is a reminder of both the potential of human achievement and the raw beauty of our planet, and it instills a sense of awe that lingers long after the journey ends.
As we docked in Panama City and brought our voyage to a close, we couldn’t help but feel part of something much larger than ourselves. We had crossed from one ocean to another, witnessed the wonders of the canal, and come away with memories that would last a lifetime. For any sailor, the Panama Canal is more than just a shortcut; it’s an adventure that connects history, humanity, and the open seas.